Published December 19, 2024
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John Lobb CEO Philippe Gonzalez talks US market amid Madison Avenue store's anniversary celebrations

Published
December 19, 2024

Much has been made of the word luxury in the past decade, all the more so revved up in the post-pandemic boon, which is beginning to show signs of waning.


Philippe Gonzalez - Courtesy


Through this mercurial lens of what constitutes true luxury, the John Lobb shoe brand has stayed true to the values instilled in it in 1849 while remaining relevant in today's market. In 2023, the brand was a leader in the newly revitalized lower Madison Avenue shopping district when it moved from 67th Street to 62nd. The brand preempted several boldface luxury brand names, including Armani, who bookmarks the area at 65th Street.

FashionNetwork.com spoke with CEO Philippe Gonzalez on how the new space transformed this exclusive yet inclusive men's shoe brand.

Chatting in the brand's bespoke salon, a richly wood-paneled round room that gives off a space-age capsule vibe, Gonzalez reiterated how the change has helped the brand messaging in the U.S. market.

"Covid changed the face of Madison Avenue. It was slowly getting empty around us, and you could see that the shape of the retail was changing," Gonzalez said, adding the new space helped with brand storytelling.

"We introduced a new store design and concept that let us express who we are with the bespoke, the by-request shoe customization and shoe shine bar programs and that displays the new products introductions in a better way. The old store was too small for this."


A live band inside the John Lobb Madison Avenue store marking its first anniversary - Courtesy


The old store was approximately 535 square feet, while the new one is close to 1,300 square feet. Gonzalez noted that the foot traffic on that end of Madison is also steady and bustling. Its more extensive glass front façade gives an inviting sense to the store.

"It's kind of like a gallery. I go to a gallery because I love the artist, but I might not have the money now to buy, and maybe I never will. In our stores, you will be treated exactly the same way as a customer with a usual customer. This is something we have developed with our team here, that warmth," he added.

Better space for storytelling means guiding the customer on the difference between its by request and bespoke programs. The former is a system that lets customers choose specific colors for uppers and linings, as well as particular hardware, or request a reissue of a former shoe model. In contrast, the other is a unique shoe made from a custom last made of one's foot, which is created by measuring the foot and runs upward of $8,000.

The brand's popular classic loafer style, the Lopez, continues to perform well in the new location, as do the newer comfort styles introduced to address a more casual approach to business and a dressier alternative to the sneaker. These styles, such as the Smith based on an English rockabilly creeper, are significantly gaining popularity with U.S. customers.

"Our customers go for it because it answers their needs, the style they wear, and their lifestyle. They need to have very, let's say, elegant shoes but with comfort," continued Gonzalez.

Guests the anniversary celebration of the John Lobb Madison Avenue store - Courtesy


The new space also expands the maintenance service for shoes made from non-coated, naturally tanned leather; thus, they require cream, wax, and buffing.

"You can update the sole, but the natural patina that occurs with our shoes after multiple wearings, but men relate to this," he added.

The shoes are premium priced but earn a high price tag due to their longevity (hence the servicing). Customers have had their shoes for decades. Gonzalez can attest to these loyal customers who now bring in their sons for their first pair of John Lobb shoes.

The brand is looking for its next U.S. location for a 2026 opening, though Gonzalez insists the strategy is to remain a niche brand.

It's probably why John Lobb prefers to forgo a prominent creative director in front of the brand, which is the opposite strategy of every other luxury brand, big and small.

Gonzalez sees it this way: "You want your brand to exist in the next 10, 50 years. It's important never to forget the brand's roots. Obviously, it has to evolve because the world evolves."

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